The eyes of strangers searching me up and down as I come towards them on a Jerusalem street… the voices of the Sephardic and Ashkenazi eighth graders singing Hebrew songs together at my sister’s school, Evelina de Rothschild… the determination of the disabled children at Shalva — a lifesaver for parents who are overwhelmed with their care… the eyes of the boy paralyzed by a suicide killer on Ben Yehuda Street lying in his bed in Hadassah hospital… the self-confidence of the female hesder soldiers…
The tears of the pediatrician who had just returned from miluim as he told us about the humanity of the Israeli Defense Force… the pride of the female Rabbinic Court advocates as they described helping agunot who were “chained” for years the frustration of the Inbal maitre d’ as he served and cleaned up the Friday night Shabbat meal by himself…
The generosity of Aharon, our bus driver, to use his free time to drive us to the checkpoint to visit with soldiers… the courage of the American grandmothers in my group as they visited with their sabra grandchildren — many of whom are serving in the army…
The empty streets, the bright blue skies, the guards outside deserted restaurants… the white Jerusalem stone buildings surrounded by vibrant flowers, purple, pink and yellow… and the words that echoed in our ears all week: “Thank you for coming…Thank you from the bottom of our hearts…Thank You.”
These are some snapshots from my week-long trip to Israel with JOFA. We were forty-two men and women from all over North America, ranging in age from eight months to 83 years. Although most of us did not know each other when we met at Gate #34 at Newark airport, we found we had much in common. We had each serendipitously seen a JOFA flyer and decided on the spur of the moment to join the mission. Each participant shared the same feeling: I wanted to go to Israel all year to show my support and this is my opportunity! Little did we know how much we would gain.
Some of the group members were active in JOFA, others were learning about the organization for the first time. The mission showcased the dynamic, creative life force of women in Israel, and it was through that lens that we learned about the political, economic and social realities of Israel today.
I’d like to focus upon three highlights of the trip — experiences that reflect the mixed emotions I had about being an American Jew and a Jewish woman. How could this tiny country so filled with optimism and energy fight back the evil shadows? What was I doing in my life to join the struggle?
Female Hesder Students
During a visit to Bar lIan University we met six hayyalot, female soldiers, who combine army service with study at a yeshiva on Kibbutz Ein haNatziv. All six are officers assigned to new recruits, many of whom are Russian olim. The women spoke of their routines — how they teach new recruits to handle weapons, enforce discipline, and direct a curriculum of Hebrew language and Israeli history. Nineteen years old and a bit shy, the women candidly discussed the challenge of supervising a platoon of several hundred men. They spoke of observing Shabbat in the army, and maintaining thelaws of personal modesty. They spoke of their love for Torah and desire to continue learning, even as they pursue professions. Their pride at serving in the army rather than in an alternate program of public service was apparent. We were amazed. These young women serve their country with such determination. Their calm quiet heroism was inspirational. What was I doing at their age?
Victims of Terrorism
We visited victims of terrorist attacks being treated in Hadassah Hospital on Mount Scopus. One young man lay on his bed, paralyzed by a bomb set off on Ben Yehudah Street while he was having coffee. He had been turned on his stomach because of terrible bedsores, and his cheek was resting on his sheet. He could hear us and understand but he could not speak. We filed by one by one and took turns holding his hands and wishing him a refuah sheleimah. I don’t think I’ll ever forget his large eyes looking up at me.
In a nearby room, a young man who had been injured outside Cafe Moment told us the details of his tragedy. The explosion came while he was waiting with his girlfriend outside the popular Rehavia café. He was thrown several blocks away. When he awoke, he was lying on his side and recognized a friend lying nearby. “Am I alive?” he asked his friend. “Yes, you are, but your arm is over there,” and he pointed. The young man looked at his friend and said, “You are alive too but your eye is gone.” Pale and wan, he told us about his long and difficult road to recovery.
An Israeli Doctor
At Hadassah Hospital, Dr. Zangen, a pediatrician, addressed us. He has asked to speak with every group of visitors to the hospital because he feels it is his duty to speak out. He told us of his experiences as chief medical officer of his army unit in Jenin.
Dr. Zangen described the difficult situation the Israeli soldiers in Jenin faced: booby trapped houses and mined roads. The soldiers were ordered to progress carefully from house to house to make sure that no unnecessary deaths were perpetrated. Many of the soldiers could not follow orders — as they approached a house, women and children would sit down in front. The soldiers could not shoot. Twenty-four soldiers were killed among them several medics shot in cold blood as they arrived to rescue wounded friends.
As chief medical officer of his unit, Dr. Zangen met with many of the international visitors and media people who came to Jenin. Outraged by the lies perpetrated in the media, he took it upon himself to speak of what he saw in Jenin – the morality of the Israeli soldiers, the care for the life of the innocent. Dr. Zangen told us that his media battle is the hardest fighting he has ever done.
And so the never-ending story continues: suicide bombers, fear of Iraqi attacks, UN resolutions. Through it all Israelis try to navigate daily life. Back in the United States, JOFA mission members absorb the news, react and reflect. We are forever changed by our week together in Israel in May. Our trip was a unique opportunity to meet friends, reinvigorate our connection to Israel and continue our quest to make meaning of our own lives. Next Year in Jerusalem.